Riding Rotterdam. Where the hills are built for sprained ankles.

So I arrived in Rotterdam as planned to end my European tour. Eva and Marnix were my former guests from Rotterdam. They were the main reason I was making a small side step into Rotterdam instead of Amsterdam. And from the get go they didn't let me down. I was off the train and with bike in hand within 5 minutes.

How awesome is Rotterdam once you have a bike? I must say it's really, really awesome if you have a busted up ankle. Because Rotterdam is as flat as a tack. The biggest hill is the incline of one of the bridges over the river bisecting the city into two. Don't worry true to form I let Marnix know I hate hills. He just smiled.

So upon arrival into Rotterdam I had merely dropped off the bag and we were off. Off on the the roads of Rotterdam where cars actually not just respect bikes, they treat them with kid gloves. Whether you're going the wrong way on a one way street, or crossing at an intersection cars know to give way. And bikeriders rely on it and hence I loved it. There was no angst from cars. They just accepted this was Rotterdam.

Rotterdam I'll remember for many reasons. For starters the architecture is profound. Everywhere there is a building designed to out do the previous. To be boring in Rotterdam would be a crime it seems. We started in the markets area which is also home to the cube houses. All of this is near the pretty harbour area.

And then there is the Port. The biggest in Europe, and 4th largest in the world I was explained. Behind a few of the ports in China. Having grown up on the bayside of Brisbane I am aware of ports and shipping containers. I've seen a few in my time. But this was something special. The sheer size of the port is thought provoking. Just how much "stuff" goes around the world. Going by the miles and miles of shipping containers the numbers must be staggering. It also makes what I can only describe as the "Shipping Container Cruise of Rotterdam" seem normal. Everywhere elseI would scoff at a cruise that highlighted the shipping container terminals. But in Rotterdam it makes sense. Several times a day tourist boats take tourist on a tour of the ports and Rotterdam. The residential and commercial side of the tourist is but a small section. And then you end up in the Port. Inlet after inlet of shipping containers. The largest coldstore with juice from South America followed by the largest blah blah blah...you get the picture.

After the tour we road over to the other side of the city and a micro brewery. We indugled in a tasting platter of cheese and meats whilst partaking in some local brew. And then in the evening we cruised on over to a local traditional meatball restaurant before retiring to a local pub to watch the local FC Feyenoord battle in the local version of the FA Cup. What a day. That was as good as it gets really for a planned touring day.

The 2nd day included a Dutch pancake breakfast before I farewelled my friends for a few hours to myself. I stumbled around before retiring for the night and the long journey home. Ankle and all.

Bunkering down in Munich

After the disaster of a ski day I needed a new plan. Of course I could have stayed with my friends in Austria but then in some ways I didn't want to feel like a burden being injured, and well I was half way across the world. I needed to see and do things. And as skiing wasn't an option I decided to return to what I know and what I felt comfortable with. Hence a return to Munich was inserted into the agenda.

I've visited Munich twice before. Once on a Contiki tour which in included Oktoberfest, and once after as a destination as I hadn't seen Munich. So this time I knew I didn't necessarily need to do the free walking tour. This was good as I could neither walk fast, nor far. Alas the weather also came to haunt me on my arrival into Germany. All of a sudden it decided to get cold after such a mild winter and it was snowing in Munich. Not so welcoming when the day before you've sprained your ankle and you're carrying a backpack.

After a slow snowy walk on slippery sidewalks from the bus station to my hostel accommodation I wasn't up for too much. I wanted comfort food. I wanted warmth. Which was in part why I chose Munich. Home to the Oktoberfest, and the traditional beer halls. Nothing better for a moaning traveller than comforting beer and pork knuckle in a beer hall. So it was off to the Augustiner Bräustuben for Dinner.

I had asked the accommodation staff to suggest a convenient beer hall, different to my previous Munich Beer Hall experiences of Hofbräu and Paulaner. It was though a familiar name none the less having visited the Augustiner brewery in Salzburg just days before.

The next full day I had investigated a trip to see Neuschwanstein Castle. However that proved to be me dreaming of days when I had full mobility as it was confirmed there would be a lot of stairs and walking. So instead I laid low with a trip to the city centre and a return to the Glockenspiel in Mairenplatz.

When a ski trip goes pear shaped. Find the small wins

This should be white with snow in winter

After Salzburg the plan for my holiday this year was to make a trip to a place called Grünau Im Amtel. Part of the Kasberg Ski Resort area of Austria. I in part chose this as a different location from the standard resorts I had previously visited in France. Their cheap french wine which I never drink for fear of headaches, and because it's crap was just not appealing. And because it would be cool to have a small ski resort experience in Austria. So plans had been set for months. This was to be the centrepiece of my trip. 4 days in the middle of Austria.

Except it didn't end up this way. Before I had left Australia I had already heard that it had been a poor start to the winter. Europe had been having it's warmest winter in ages. The ski reports from the internet were reading optimism and hope whereas the snow reports were reading tragedy on the cards. But I persisted in the belief it would work out. After all this plan was to ski at the end of February, the month everyone said to avoid Europe as it's too cold.

And then the dominoes started to fall.

It first started with my arrival into Vienna. Met up with my Austrian friends who I had been discussing my Austrian plans throughout the planning. They confirmed it was not a good season, and suggested I change my plans. They were able to host me and take me to an alternative ski resort for a day. It would be better. Without snow they were concerned I'd had 4 nights in nowhere Austria with little more then countryside walks to complete.

And then after arrival into Salzburg came the kicker. The day before I was to depart on the Kasberg website was bad news that the 8 seat chair to the top of the mountain was broken down and would not be operational until 3 days later. But as a result ski passes would only be 15 euro a day! Realisation had set in. It was just not meant to be. I felt bad I was cancelling the hostel I had planned and arranged for months via a simple email. They would receive nothing for my late cancellation. But then they were also aware I was only booking for the skiing, and well that had been reduced to a handful of lower beginner runs with limited snow, and a ski carpet for beginners.

Danielle lost and ate the egg

Traditional Easter eggs with the staring bird

So I moved the trip sideways. All seemed right when I arrived to my friend's place for a few nights near Laakirchen. And well I won the traditional Easter egg smash-a-thon prior to dinner in the local Gasthof. Small win Chad! This was lucky as the loser then just peels the egg and eats it. I could not get over the fact the egg could have been boiled a week ago. It was just going against all my thoughts of food preparation and storage.

But it seems that was my last win. For during the day of skiing the body failed me instead. I lasted through the first ski session without an issue. The skiing at Schladming. And then a mere 100m into the 2nd session as we descended down to the lower station I had a fall. My ski on the right foot went in and then way out. I went down... and well I just felt it... I wasn't getting up. From there it was the process that had to happen. Get carted off the hill, wait for ambulance, go to hospital, and then finally get examined. My instant reaction was... "is it broken? But I was in a ski boot."

Right ankle which suffered catastrophic failure

Alas potential photo of the trip was missed when the ski patrol carted me off the hill. Alas it also killed my ski buddy Peder's day of skiing. But I must say it was good to have him there able to discuss what would be next in the process. My German is a bit rough. After going through the motions in the hospital of examinations and x-ray it was determined I had just sprained my ankle. And the remedy would be rest. I was released unharmed fairly quickly.

The result of the injury and early finish to skiing changed the trip again. And well look look back upon the afternoon as having received a win as we took a side trip to Hallstatt. But for walking I was forgetting about the ankle in what is an absolutely picturesque town on the lake. What's really interesting is that if not for the Chinese having built a replica version in China the place would be just another town. But now this place was buzzing with Chinese tourist all keen to see the real Hallstatt. If you wanted the complete experience you could even hire traditional Dirndl to walk around town during your visit! And then pick up your own Chinese panda souvenir on the way out.

We returned to Laakirchen in the evening passing by a Castle on the Lake in Gmunden. A local iconic image. And well it made for a wonderful photo as the chill of the evening descended upon us.

The Lake Castle in Gmunden

The discussion of this area could not be concluded without special mention of this vending machine in the village near my friends place. How cool, and yet so Austrian is it for your local butcher to have a meat vending machine? For when you just need meat now!

I was told it's extremely popular. Especially in summer when you realise too late you need some wurst for a BBQ after being at the lake all day. I didn't get to try. Maybe next time.

High on a hill but there was no lonely goat

High on a hill with a lonely goat. That was my only goal for Salzburg. I had no interest in actually completing the Sound of Music Tour. In fact I had decided that is was pretty much the Sound of me saying "hell no" if offered.

If you want know who was in Salzburg for this movie you need only see the movie room for the hostel from 8pm. There is no doubt that if asked probably 75% would say it's a completely true story. The movie has though provided great entertainment, and a means for learning English for many. It was interesting to see that a movie unknown by Germans and Austrians so well revered by Chinese and other Asian travellers.

Although I did not find a goat I did complete a walking trek up the hill towards the castle via stairwells and other paths.

 

And most importantly in the afternoon I completed the most important goal. Augustiner Brauhaus. I actually arrived at 2:30pm to find it not open until 3pm. When I returned at 3:15pmI found half the place full. Locals take this place seriously. You grab a stein from the rack on the side (full or half) and then line up to pay. Make sure you clean your stein before then handing your ticket to the barman who fills your stein. I was there during the winter strong bier season. Half was enough for me. Especially as it was breaking my beer fasting due to the cold I had caught. The strong bier was to do me well. Word is they fill it with extra nutrients for lent.

After the beer I got some pork and potato salad, sat down to eat and drink for a while in the 3rd hall. Hall 1 was smoking and Hall 2 was full. My hall barely had any unbooked tables. It did though have a very full Australian tourist who forgot how much his stomach shrinks when he's in tourist mode.

There are no Kangaroos in Austria

Time had come for me to take a 2hr train ride out of Budapest and onto Vienna, Austria. Importantly the move also signalled another significant change. From here I was down to Hostels not Hotels. The Austrian prices and recent move down of the Aussie dollar certainly made this a more understandable decision.

Within 3 hrs of arriving in Vienna I had met up with some of my former couchsurfers. Although not based in Vienna they had made a trip for a concert that night in Vienna. Interestingly it was the band that had been victim to the Parisian attacks in 2015. They were continuing their tour in Europe and this was the makeup concert for the event schedule that had abruptly stopped. My friends had expected to see these guys months ago. Instead they were off to the concert that night, and it coincided with my arrival into Vienna.

Day 2 of Vienna saw me take to the streets in the morning. I followed the map as best I could to follow the circled list of icons. The standard Church, Rathaus, and Museum building collection. By morning tea I was at the next of the major tick boxes for Vienna. I was in the Sachers Hotel having my Vienna coffee and Chocolate Torte.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sachertorte

By lunch I was at the Nachmarkt catching up again with my friends being introduced to this area as they too met with other friends during their Vienna trip.

Vienna has it's own version of the ampelmann. Isn't that sweet. Green men like to be led across the road by women.

And don't worry, I looked inside before deciding upon this place for my Wiener schnitzel experience in Vienna. Can't say about the crowd it gets at night though. So enter at your own risk.

Night skiing at the Rathaus.

Austrian Parliament.

Budapest in Winter

By the time I hit Budapest my health had me into management mode. With only a week of the trip expended I though that if I managed the oncoming cold I'd be able to enjoy the remainder of my trip.

Alas what I missed out in Budapest was some of the regional delicacies I had been suggested to partake in. Sometimes it was just easier to skip than others. A giant size Nescafe was never on my agenda but the cool weather made it tempting. But I had already tried a local coffee shop that morning to only find it didn't know what a mocha was.

I took an easy option in Budapest. With 3 nights I took a 48hr hop-on hop-off bus. Again. What was I thinking.... previous travels only confirm I've hardly seen a good one of these. And well after 2 days I would say the value was questionable somewhat. But thanks to the included boat cruise option I would say it was ok. I was though disappointed the buses only operated about 6hrs a day on one of the 2 loops. However it was winter and I guess priced reflected the lower availability.

Plus the combination of bus loops enabled me to avoid having to figure out the public transport system. One less problem when getting sick. I also delivered me to a point for which I would never had thought to try but had read about. The New York Cafe Budapest. This place is described as the place to dine in Budapest. Perhaps my Uncle and Aunt had previously given me a tasted for this experience when I travel. Uncle Cliff, Aunty Gwen if you are reading this. This place is your new goal! The cakes, the coffee, the grandiose of an era gone by.

Travelling around Budapest was quite easy. Stick close to the river is a good rule for most monuments, castles, and museums. I can only suggest you do try to avoid this place in the peak of the tourism summer. Winter was a nice time for me in a way to visit. But it was again a city partly closed by the cold of winter.

By the final afternoon I was getting tired. And well I hadn't actually visited a Budapest spa. This is afterall one of the things to do in Budapest, and I had researched the options beforehand. So I chose Gellert Spa. Located in the 5 star Gellert Hotel. From the websites it looked one of the more glamourous and it did not disappoint.
 

What this photo of the spa does not convey is that you should perhaps try this larger spa first at 27 degrees. Alas I did not. I went straight to the 36 degree hot spa. As a result I was forever the guy trying to walk out of the hot spa to try jump into the not so hot spa. I looked like a big wuss. Would get upto my hips and then scurry out back to the warmth of the other pool. I tried 3 times. In summer the spa also includes some outdoor pools. But at next to freezing the area isn't openned to the public in winter. That I definitely wouldn't have tried.

When flustered there is still time for chocolate

At the time I was leaving Frankfurt there were 2 things I knew. One was I was going to be getting a cold. And the 2nd was if I left early enough there would b plenty of time for a Lindt Chocolate Museum stop in Cologne on the way to the airport.

Alas it was only after leaving the hotel that it all began to turn... The Fly-Train combination ticket I had bought needed a secondary ticket. Only I just realised this when I was at the main station boarding train to Cologne. It was only a mention in sentence of an attachment to an email document to my flight ticket. To click here to download ticket. 

So knowing this and not wanting to be fined by Deutsche Bahn I got off at Frankfurt Airport to sort it out, as I had time. I thought I would merely need to print a ticket. 2 hours later...  I was totally flustered and no better protected from questioning. Deutsche Bahn couldn't print the ticket, Frankfurt Airport Internet was worse than carrier pigeon, and the airline wasn't represented at Frankfurt. Heck I even got a Starbucks coffee only to be told they didn't have a separate wifi.

After 2hrs I had had enough. This was taking my Cologne lunch stop away. I got on a train and then just pleaded my case to the conductors. They saw all the evidence and then just let me be. I explained that both airline or Bahn had led me on goose chase. I suspect I wasn't the first.

Anyway I got into Cologne just after 1:30pm. My international flight was at 6:30pm. I was flustered and getting sick. But my calculations there was still time.

The walk to the chocolate museum took way less time than expected. All good. I was in. And straight to the chocolate wafer lady. And again. And again. Ok now I could think again.

Ah but not rationally apparently as all of a sudden I was placing an order for a personalised chocolate block. 35min wait was now informed to be 45min. Which meant I was cutting fine for my luggage at Cologne HBF in 2hr lockers.

Alas setting chocolate is like a watched pot. How frickin' long. And why did she stop at 745 when my number was 749. That's another 10 minutes right there waiting for the next crop! Eventually it arrived and all in the world came into peace.

And like a courier as soon as package was in possession I was off. Bags collected and onto a local train to Cologne Bonn airport.